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	<title>Comments for indoorgokartracing.com</title>
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	<link>http://indoorgokartracing.com</link>
	<description>Everything you need to know about go kart racing</description>
	<pubDate>Wed, 10 Mar 2010 10:07:17 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Comment on Racing Formats by GoKartRacer</title>
		<link>http://indoorgokartracing.com/racing-formats/comment-page-1/#comment-22</link>
		<dc:creator>GoKartRacer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Apr 2009 03:38:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://indoorgokartracing.com/?page_id=50#comment-22</guid>
		<description>Sprint racing takes place on dedicated kart circuits resembling small road courses, with a variety of turns. Tracks go from 1/4 mile (400 m) to over 1 mile (1,600 meters) in length.

Endurance races last for an extended period, from 30 minutes up to 24 hours or more with one or more drivers. Consistency, reliability, and pit strategy is of greater importance than all out speed.

Speedway racing takes place on asphalt or clay oval tracks which are normally between 1/6 mile and 1/4 mile long. Tracks primarily consist of two straights and four left-turn corners, few tracks are symmetric and often the shape parallels that of an egg or a tri-oval.

Speedway racing takes place on asphalt or clay oval tracks which are between 1/6 mile and 1/4 mile long. Tracks primarily consist of two straights and four left-turn corners, few tracks are symmetric and often the shape parallels that of an egg or a tri-oval.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sprint racing takes place on dedicated kart circuits resembling small road courses, with a variety of turns. Tracks go from 1/4 mile (400 m) to over 1 mile (1,600 meters) in length.</p>
<p>Endurance races last for an extended period, from 30 minutes up to 24 hours or more with one or more drivers. Consistency, reliability, and pit strategy is of greater importance than all out speed.</p>
<p>Speedway racing takes place on asphalt or clay oval tracks which are normally between 1/6 mile and 1/4 mile long. Tracks primarily consist of two straights and four left-turn corners, few tracks are symmetric and often the shape parallels that of an egg or a tri-oval.</p>
<p>Speedway racing takes place on asphalt or clay oval tracks which are between 1/6 mile and 1/4 mile long. Tracks primarily consist of two straights and four left-turn corners, few tracks are symmetric and often the shape parallels that of an egg or a tri-oval.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Go Kart Components by GoKartRacer</title>
		<link>http://indoorgokartracing.com/go-kart-components/comment-page-1/#comment-21</link>
		<dc:creator>GoKartRacer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Apr 2009 03:33:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://indoorgokartracing.com/?page_id=47#comment-21</guid>
		<description>Engine: 
There are three different types used in Go Karts. 

Electric go-karts are low maintenance, requiring only that the lead-acid battery from a cars plugged into an array of chargers after each run. Since they are pollution-free and emit no emission, the racetracks can be indoors in controlled environments. A fully charged electric kart can run a maximum of 20 minutes before performance is affected. 

2-stroke kart engines are developed and built by dedicated manufacturers. Comer, IAME (Parilla, Komet), TM, Vortex, Titan, REFO, Yamaha and Rotax are manufacturers of go kart engines. These can develop from 8 hp for a single-cylinder 60 cc unit (MiniROK by Vortex) to 90 hp for a twin 250 cc. Currently he most popular categories worldwide are those using the Touch-and-go (TAG) 125 cc units. The recent 125 cc KF1 engines are electronically limited at 16,000 rpm. Most are water-cooled today, previously air-cooled engines dominated the sport. 

Karts do not have a differential. The lack of a differential means that one rear tire must slide while cornering, this is achieved by designing the chassis so that the inside rear tire lifts up slightly when the kart turns the corner. This allows the tire to lose some of its grip and slide or lift off the ground completely.

Wheels and tires are much smaller than those used on a normal car. Rims are made of magnesium alloy or aluminum. Tires support cornering forces in excess of 2 G (20 m/s²), depending on chassis, engine, and motor setup. Tires used are slicks for dry weather, rain tires or "wets" for wet conditions, and spiked for icy track conditions.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Engine:<br />
There are three different types used in Go Karts. </p>
<p>Electric go-karts are low maintenance, requiring only that the lead-acid battery from a cars plugged into an array of chargers after each run. Since they are pollution-free and emit no emission, the racetracks can be indoors in controlled environments. A fully charged electric kart can run a maximum of 20 minutes before performance is affected. </p>
<p>2-stroke kart engines are developed and built by dedicated manufacturers. Comer, IAME (Parilla, Komet), TM, Vortex, Titan, REFO, Yamaha and Rotax are manufacturers of go kart engines. These can develop from 8 hp for a single-cylinder 60 cc unit (MiniROK by Vortex) to 90 hp for a twin 250 cc. Currently he most popular categories worldwide are those using the Touch-and-go (TAG) 125 cc units. The recent 125 cc KF1 engines are electronically limited at 16,000 rpm. Most are water-cooled today, previously air-cooled engines dominated the sport. </p>
<p>Karts do not have a differential. The lack of a differential means that one rear tire must slide while cornering, this is achieved by designing the chassis so that the inside rear tire lifts up slightly when the kart turns the corner. This allows the tire to lose some of its grip and slide or lift off the ground completely.</p>
<p>Wheels and tires are much smaller than those used on a normal car. Rims are made of magnesium alloy or aluminum. Tires support cornering forces in excess of 2 G (20 m/s²), depending on chassis, engine, and motor setup. Tires used are slicks for dry weather, rain tires or &#8220;wets&#8221; for wet conditions, and spiked for icy track conditions.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Go Kart Components by GoKartRacer</title>
		<link>http://indoorgokartracing.com/go-kart-components/comment-page-1/#comment-20</link>
		<dc:creator>GoKartRacer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Apr 2009 03:26:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://indoorgokartracing.com/?page_id=47#comment-20</guid>
		<description>Chassis:
The chassis are made of steel tube welded together. There is no suspension therefore chassis have to be flexible enough to work as a suspension and rigid enough not to break or give way on a turn. Kart chassis are classified in the USA as 'Open', 'Caged', 'Straight' or 'Offset'. All CIK-FIA approved chassis are 'Straight' and 'Open'

- Open karts have no roll cage. 
- Caged karts have a roll cage surrounding the driver; they are mostly used on dirt tracks. 
- In Straight chassis the driver sits in the center. Straight chassis are used for sprint racing. 
- In Offset chassis the driver sits on the left side. Offset chassis are used for left-turn-only speedway racing.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Chassis:<br />
The chassis are made of steel tube welded together. There is no suspension therefore chassis have to be flexible enough to work as a suspension and rigid enough not to break or give way on a turn. Kart chassis are classified in the USA as &#8216;Open&#8217;, &#8216;Caged&#8217;, &#8216;Straight&#8217; or &#8216;Offset&#8217;. All CIK-FIA approved chassis are &#8216;Straight&#8217; and &#8216;Open&#8217;</p>
<p>- Open karts have no roll cage.<br />
- Caged karts have a roll cage surrounding the driver; they are mostly used on dirt tracks.<br />
- In Straight chassis the driver sits in the center. Straight chassis are used for sprint racing.<br />
- In Offset chassis the driver sits on the left side. Offset chassis are used for left-turn-only speedway racing.</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on About by GoKartRacer</title>
		<link>http://indoorgokartracing.com/about/comment-page-1/#comment-19</link>
		<dc:creator>GoKartRacer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Apr 2009 03:21:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://indoorgokartracing.com/?page_id=2#comment-19</guid>
		<description>Short History on Go Karting

Art Ingels is accepted to be the father of go karting. A veteran hot rodder and a race car builder at Kurtis Kraft, he built the first kart in Southern California in 1956. Karting has rapidly spread worldwide, and currently has a large following in Europe.

The first kart manufacturer was an American company, Go Kart Manufacturing Co. (1958). McCulloch was the first company in 1959, to produce engines for karts. Its first engine, the McCulloch MC-10, was a modified chainsaw 2-stroke engine. In the 1960's, motorcycle engines were also introduced for kart use, before dedicated manufacturers specifically in Italy (IAME), started to build engines for the sport.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Short History on Go Karting</p>
<p>Art Ingels is accepted to be the father of go karting. A veteran hot rodder and a race car builder at Kurtis Kraft, he built the first kart in Southern California in 1956. Karting has rapidly spread worldwide, and currently has a large following in Europe.</p>
<p>The first kart manufacturer was an American company, Go Kart Manufacturing Co. (1958). McCulloch was the first company in 1959, to produce engines for karts. Its first engine, the McCulloch MC-10, was a modified chainsaw 2-stroke engine. In the 1960&#8217;s, motorcycle engines were also introduced for kart use, before dedicated manufacturers specifically in Italy (IAME), started to build engines for the sport.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Outdoor Go Kart Racing Track Types by GoKartRacer</title>
		<link>http://indoorgokartracing.com/outdoor-go-kart-racing-track-types/comment-page-1/#comment-18</link>
		<dc:creator>GoKartRacer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Apr 2009 00:53:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://indoorgokartracing.com/?page_id=40#comment-18</guid>
		<description>Kids Karts Kart Racing is designed for drivers 4 to 7 years old. These karts come with a 50cc engine and are ready to run. These karts run on Sprint or Speedway tracks and allow the young karter to develop their skills in a safe and controlled environment.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kids Karts Kart Racing is designed for drivers 4 to 7 years old. These karts come with a 50cc engine and are ready to run. These karts run on Sprint or Speedway tracks and allow the young karter to develop their skills in a safe and controlled environment.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Go Karts Trouble Shooting Guide by GoKartRacer</title>
		<link>http://indoorgokartracing.com/go-karts-trouble-shooting-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-17</link>
		<dc:creator>GoKartRacer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Apr 2009 00:52:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://indoorgokartracing.com/?page_id=36#comment-17</guid>
		<description>Low Speed:
Throttle cable not properly adjusted
Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle
Malfunctioning drive system
Improper tire pressure
Engine not functioning properly
Drive Chain
Chain Falls Off Sprockets:
Chain tension too loose
Unlubricated, stretched or worn drive chain
Worn, overheated, or abused clutch
Sprockets not aligned
Bent, worn, or loose sprockets and or sprocket hubs
Loose drive wheel
Bent or loose axle
Bent frame
BRAKE SYSTEMS
Band Brake Equipped - Lining Wears Quickly:
Driver riding the brake
Brake rod or cable not properly adjusted
Kart Will Not Stop - Brake Does Not Work:
Brake rod or cable not properly adjusted
Brake band lining/pads worn
No key in brake drum/disk
No key in the wheel hub
Brake Binds Or Will Not Release:
Brake rod not properly adjusted
Brake linkage not lubricated
Brake linkage fastener too tight
Broken, weak, or stretched brake pedal return spring
STEERING
Steering Effort Too High:
Steering linkages not lubricated
Spindle pivot bolt too tight
Improper tire pressure
"Toe-In" not properly adjusted
Binding tie rod end
Bent spindle or tie rod
Bent front axle
Bent steering column</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Low Speed:<br />
Throttle cable not properly adjusted<br />
Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle<br />
Malfunctioning drive system<br />
Improper tire pressure<br />
Engine not functioning properly<br />
Drive Chain<br />
Chain Falls Off Sprockets:<br />
Chain tension too loose<br />
Unlubricated, stretched or worn drive chain<br />
Worn, overheated, or abused clutch<br />
Sprockets not aligned<br />
Bent, worn, or loose sprockets and or sprocket hubs<br />
Loose drive wheel<br />
Bent or loose axle<br />
Bent frame<br />
BRAKE SYSTEMS<br />
Band Brake Equipped - Lining Wears Quickly:<br />
Driver riding the brake<br />
Brake rod or cable not properly adjusted<br />
Kart Will Not Stop - Brake Does Not Work:<br />
Brake rod or cable not properly adjusted<br />
Brake band lining/pads worn<br />
No key in brake drum/disk<br />
No key in the wheel hub<br />
Brake Binds Or Will Not Release:<br />
Brake rod not properly adjusted<br />
Brake linkage not lubricated<br />
Brake linkage fastener too tight<br />
Broken, weak, or stretched brake pedal return spring<br />
STEERING<br />
Steering Effort Too High:<br />
Steering linkages not lubricated<br />
Spindle pivot bolt too tight<br />
Improper tire pressure<br />
&#8220;Toe-In&#8221; not properly adjusted<br />
Binding tie rod end<br />
Bent spindle or tie rod<br />
Bent front axle<br />
Bent steering column</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Go Karts Trouble Shooting Guide by GoKartRacer</title>
		<link>http://indoorgokartracing.com/go-karts-trouble-shooting-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-16</link>
		<dc:creator>GoKartRacer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Apr 2009 00:52:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://indoorgokartracing.com/?page_id=36#comment-16</guid>
		<description>Clogged or wet air filter
Faulty stop switch
Oil guard sensor is tripping (9hp Vanguard equipped units only)
Throttle cable is grounding to engine stop terminal
Carburetor not functioning properly
Seems Low On Power:
Throttle cable not properly adjusted
Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle
Unlubricated, loose or worn chain
Incorrect tire pressure
Engine rpm's not set properly
Throttle Will Not Return To Idle:
Throttle cable not properly adjusted
Throttle linkage not lubricated
Throttle linkage fastener too tight
Broken, weak, or stretched throttle pedal return spring
Broken, weak, or stretched engine throttle return spring
Engine throttle linkage binding
STOP AND START SWITCHES
Start Switch Does Not Work
Electric Start Units:
Check battery voltage and connections
Check start switch connectors
Faulty start switch
Faulty solenoid
Stop Switch Does Not Work:
Loose ground wire
Bad connection or broken wire
Loose terminal on engine
Faulty toggle switch
Faulty engine ground terminal
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Headlights Do Not Work:
Headlight burnt out
Bad connection or broken wire
Low Battery Voltage
Poor ground
DRIVE SYSTEMS
Centrifugal Clutch Equipped
Kart Moves While Engine Is Idling
Worn, overheated, or abused clutch - NOT OILED
Drive chain too tight
Engine idle is set too high
DRIVE SYSTEMS
Torque Converter Equipped
Kart Moves While Engine Is Idling
Drive belt installed wrong (30 Series only, flat side of belt should be towards the engine)
Wrong drive belt installed (a belt that is too short will cause the machine to "creep" at idle)
Malfunctioning driver pulley (on crankshaft)
Malfunctioning driven pulley (on jackshaft)
Incorrect driver pulley spacing
Engine idle set too high
Pulleys not aligned (will also destroy belts)
Rapid Belt Wear:
Drive belt installed wrong (30 Series only, flat side of belt should be towards the engine)
Wrong drive belt installed
Overloading drive system (climbing hills too steep, pulling heavy loads...)
Riding the brake
Malfunctioning driver pulley
Malfunctioning driven pulley
Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle
Pulleys not aligned
NOTE: See The Comet Torque Converter Chart at the bottom of this page for more belt drive system trouble shooting Information.
Poor, Sluggish Or Jerky Acceleration:
Malfunctioning drive system
Throttle cable not properly adjusted
Unlubricated, loose, or worn drive chain
Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle
Engine not functioning properly
Erratic Engagement:
Erratic engagement is most often caused by the driver clutch that is mounted on the engine crankshaft. The flyweights in the clutch are sticking or the movable sheave is binding on the hub. Knowing how they work may help you determine why yours doesn't. As engine rpm increases, the flyweights push against the outer drum and force the movable sheave (pulley face) toward the engine causing the belt to travel at a greater circumference around the driver clutch. This action in turn causes the belt to force open the driven pulley, allowing the belt to travel at a lesser circumference around the driven pulley.
As engine rpm decreases, the spring in the driven pulley closes the pulley forcing the belt to a greater circumference. This action overcomes the force of the flyweights against the movable sheave and causes the driver clutch pulley to open, allowing the belt to travel a lesser circumference around the driver clutch.
When the engine is at idle, the driver clutch pulley should not engage the sides of the belt. The belt should be loose in the pulley and resting on the bronze bushing around the hub. The bronze bushing serves to protect the belt from rubbing against the spinning hub at idle and also to support a portion of the movable sheave as the sheave moves toward the engine during engagement.
The movable sheave must be able to slide freely on the splined hub without binding. Disassemble the driver clutch and clean away any dirt or lubricant residue using an automotive parts cleaning solvent. Do not use a petroleum based lubricant inside the driver clutch or between the hub and movable sheave. Use a dry, molybdenum based lubricant such as Comet GP-370. The extreme heat and pressure inside the driver clutch chars most petroleum based lubricants. Petroleum based lube also collects dirt which causes increased wear. Graphite lube is better than petroleum lube, but it also eventually leaves a residue that builds up on the parts, causing them to bind and require more frequent cleaning. Experience has taught us that the Comet GP-370 lubricant (or equivalent ) works best.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Clogged or wet air filter<br />
Faulty stop switch<br />
Oil guard sensor is tripping (9hp Vanguard equipped units only)<br />
Throttle cable is grounding to engine stop terminal<br />
Carburetor not functioning properly<br />
Seems Low On Power:<br />
Throttle cable not properly adjusted<br />
Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle<br />
Unlubricated, loose or worn chain<br />
Incorrect tire pressure<br />
Engine rpm&#8217;s not set properly<br />
Throttle Will Not Return To Idle:<br />
Throttle cable not properly adjusted<br />
Throttle linkage not lubricated<br />
Throttle linkage fastener too tight<br />
Broken, weak, or stretched throttle pedal return spring<br />
Broken, weak, or stretched engine throttle return spring<br />
Engine throttle linkage binding<br />
STOP AND START SWITCHES<br />
Start Switch Does Not Work<br />
Electric Start Units:<br />
Check battery voltage and connections<br />
Check start switch connectors<br />
Faulty start switch<br />
Faulty solenoid<br />
Stop Switch Does Not Work:<br />
Loose ground wire<br />
Bad connection or broken wire<br />
Loose terminal on engine<br />
Faulty toggle switch<br />
Faulty engine ground terminal<br />
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM<br />
Headlights Do Not Work:<br />
Headlight burnt out<br />
Bad connection or broken wire<br />
Low Battery Voltage<br />
Poor ground<br />
DRIVE SYSTEMS<br />
Centrifugal Clutch Equipped<br />
Kart Moves While Engine Is Idling<br />
Worn, overheated, or abused clutch - NOT OILED<br />
Drive chain too tight<br />
Engine idle is set too high<br />
DRIVE SYSTEMS<br />
Torque Converter Equipped<br />
Kart Moves While Engine Is Idling<br />
Drive belt installed wrong (30 Series only, flat side of belt should be towards the engine)<br />
Wrong drive belt installed (a belt that is too short will cause the machine to &#8220;creep&#8221; at idle)<br />
Malfunctioning driver pulley (on crankshaft)<br />
Malfunctioning driven pulley (on jackshaft)<br />
Incorrect driver pulley spacing<br />
Engine idle set too high<br />
Pulleys not aligned (will also destroy belts)<br />
Rapid Belt Wear:<br />
Drive belt installed wrong (30 Series only, flat side of belt should be towards the engine)<br />
Wrong drive belt installed<br />
Overloading drive system (climbing hills too steep, pulling heavy loads&#8230;)<br />
Riding the brake<br />
Malfunctioning driver pulley<br />
Malfunctioning driven pulley<br />
Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle<br />
Pulleys not aligned<br />
NOTE: See The Comet Torque Converter Chart at the bottom of this page for more belt drive system trouble shooting Information.<br />
Poor, Sluggish Or Jerky Acceleration:<br />
Malfunctioning drive system<br />
Throttle cable not properly adjusted<br />
Unlubricated, loose, or worn drive chain<br />
Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle<br />
Engine not functioning properly<br />
Erratic Engagement:<br />
Erratic engagement is most often caused by the driver clutch that is mounted on the engine crankshaft. The flyweights in the clutch are sticking or the movable sheave is binding on the hub. Knowing how they work may help you determine why yours doesn&#8217;t. As engine rpm increases, the flyweights push against the outer drum and force the movable sheave (pulley face) toward the engine causing the belt to travel at a greater circumference around the driver clutch. This action in turn causes the belt to force open the driven pulley, allowing the belt to travel at a lesser circumference around the driven pulley.<br />
As engine rpm decreases, the spring in the driven pulley closes the pulley forcing the belt to a greater circumference. This action overcomes the force of the flyweights against the movable sheave and causes the driver clutch pulley to open, allowing the belt to travel a lesser circumference around the driver clutch.<br />
When the engine is at idle, the driver clutch pulley should not engage the sides of the belt. The belt should be loose in the pulley and resting on the bronze bushing around the hub. The bronze bushing serves to protect the belt from rubbing against the spinning hub at idle and also to support a portion of the movable sheave as the sheave moves toward the engine during engagement.<br />
The movable sheave must be able to slide freely on the splined hub without binding. Disassemble the driver clutch and clean away any dirt or lubricant residue using an automotive parts cleaning solvent. Do not use a petroleum based lubricant inside the driver clutch or between the hub and movable sheave. Use a dry, molybdenum based lubricant such as Comet GP-370. The extreme heat and pressure inside the driver clutch chars most petroleum based lubricants. Petroleum based lube also collects dirt which causes increased wear. Graphite lube is better than petroleum lube, but it also eventually leaves a residue that builds up on the parts, causing them to bind and require more frequent cleaning. Experience has taught us that the Comet GP-370 lubricant (or equivalent ) works best.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Go Karts Trouble Shooting Guide by GoKartRacer</title>
		<link>http://indoorgokartracing.com/go-karts-trouble-shooting-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-15</link>
		<dc:creator>GoKartRacer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Apr 2009 00:52:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://indoorgokartracing.com/?page_id=36#comment-15</guid>
		<description>Will Not Stay Running:
Check gas and oil: If your engine has water in the gasoline, it will start, run for a few seconds, then as soon as the water hits the carburetor the engine will die. You can look in the bottom of the gas tank and see water "beading" around if it's present. If your engine's gas tank and carb. do contain water it must be removed completely.
Loose spark plug wire or bad plug</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Will Not Stay Running:<br />
Check gas and oil: If your engine has water in the gasoline, it will start, run for a few seconds, then as soon as the water hits the carburetor the engine will die. You can look in the bottom of the gas tank and see water &#8220;beading&#8221; around if it&#8217;s present. If your engine&#8217;s gas tank and carb. do contain water it must be removed completely.<br />
Loose spark plug wire or bad plug</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Go Karts Trouble Shooting Guide by GoKartRacer</title>
		<link>http://indoorgokartracing.com/go-karts-trouble-shooting-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-14</link>
		<dc:creator>GoKartRacer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Apr 2009 00:51:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://indoorgokartracing.com/?page_id=36#comment-14</guid>
		<description>GASOLINE ENGINES
Will Not Start:
Check gas and oil
Kill switch set to "off"
Choke improperly set
Engine flooded
Spark plug wire not connected
Clogged or wet air filter: The air filter functions as the lungs of the engine, if it is wet or clogged with dirt the engine is unable to "breathe" and may be difficult or impossible to start. Check your filter on a regular basis, more often if you ride in dusty conditions. Clean air filters also prevent the engine from ingesting dirt and sand that damage internal working parts.
Throttle cable is grounding to engine stop terminal
Faulty start switch or battery (electric start units)
Stale Fuel: Gasoline in a vented fuel tank can go stale within 60 days. Stale gas smells like varnish and leaves "gummy" deposits that clog the tiny jets of the engine's carburetor. If your engine has been sitting up with stale gasoline in the fuel tank your carburetor may require a soaking in carburetor cleaner to remove these deposits. Remove all rubber pieces including the throttle shaft seal (o-ring) before soaking. After the carburetor is free of all bad gas deposits it should be reinstalled with new gaskets in place. Make sure your fuel tank is clean and free of stale gas as well.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>GASOLINE ENGINES<br />
Will Not Start:<br />
Check gas and oil<br />
Kill switch set to &#8220;off&#8221;<br />
Choke improperly set<br />
Engine flooded<br />
Spark plug wire not connected<br />
Clogged or wet air filter: The air filter functions as the lungs of the engine, if it is wet or clogged with dirt the engine is unable to &#8220;breathe&#8221; and may be difficult or impossible to start. Check your filter on a regular basis, more often if you ride in dusty conditions. Clean air filters also prevent the engine from ingesting dirt and sand that damage internal working parts.<br />
Throttle cable is grounding to engine stop terminal<br />
Faulty start switch or battery (electric start units)<br />
Stale Fuel: Gasoline in a vented fuel tank can go stale within 60 days. Stale gas smells like varnish and leaves &#8220;gummy&#8221; deposits that clog the tiny jets of the engine&#8217;s carburetor. If your engine has been sitting up with stale gasoline in the fuel tank your carburetor may require a soaking in carburetor cleaner to remove these deposits. Remove all rubber pieces including the throttle shaft seal (o-ring) before soaking. After the carburetor is free of all bad gas deposits it should be reinstalled with new gaskets in place. Make sure your fuel tank is clean and free of stale gas as well.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Make indoor kart-racing centers by GoKartRacer</title>
		<link>http://indoorgokartracing.com/make-indoor-kart-racing-centers/comment-page-1/#comment-13</link>
		<dc:creator>GoKartRacer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Apr 2009 00:50:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://indoorgokartracing.com/?page_id=44#comment-13</guid>
		<description>Headquarters: Chesterfield
Year established: 2004
Founders: Karl Krummenacher and D. Jackson Smith
Business: Developing indoor kart-racing centers at the Earth City business park in Maryland Heights and the new Bottle District in downtown St. Louis. Grand Prix Speedways hopes to expand nationally into a chain of 50 centers.

Reporter Christopher Carey
E-mail: ccarey@post-dispatch.com
Phone: 314-340-8291</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Headquarters: Chesterfield<br />
Year established: 2004<br />
Founders: Karl Krummenacher and D. Jackson Smith<br />
Business: Developing indoor kart-racing centers at the Earth City business park in Maryland Heights and the new Bottle District in downtown St. Louis. Grand Prix Speedways hopes to expand nationally into a chain of 50 centers.</p>
<p>Reporter Christopher Carey<br />
E-mail: <a href="mailto:ccarey@post-dispatch.com">ccarey@post-dispatch.com</a><br />
Phone: 314-340-8291</p>
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